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| Absinthe Herb Cultivation in Pontarlier |
While green anise is grown largely in Spain and in the south of France, and Florence fennel
comes from Italy, the other 4 major herbs in a typical Pontarlier absinthe blend were all
historically grown in the region: grand wormwood (Artemisia absinthium), petite wormwood
(Artemisia pontica, aka Roman wormwood), melissa (aka lemonbalm), and hyssop.
With the century-long ban on absinthe, the tradition of cultivating these herbs around Pontarlier
died out, and the priceless knowledge of local growing conditions was largely lost. In the last
few years, we at Archive Spirits have been instrumental in helping rebuild this lost heritage, by
working with local farmers to once again plant the classic Pontarlier absinthe herbs, in some
cases in the very same fields that, on the evidence of old photographs, once supplied the
absinthe distillers of the Belle Epoque. We're proud that all the absinthe herbs used in our
Roquette range are locally grown, just a few miles from the distillery.
It seems appropriate to quote here an extract from Ernest Tisserand's 1922 "Éloge de la très
précieuse liqueur d’Absinthe", an elegiac memoir of the absinthe era:
There are no sweeter names than those borne by the plants from which the mild liquor is
distilled. And I don't know in all the world of plants more vivid and more proud. They are the very
flower of the spirited hyssop, the fennel that scents the mullet grilled for kings, the melissa that
restores color to swooning women, the anise that makes food resound, the angelica embedded
like sticks of joy in children's gingerbread, the star anise nurtured by mandarins like the Dutch
tend their tulips, the coriander that bleaches the saliva, the mint that drives love, the oregano
that makes the eyes of maidens shine, and it is the wormwood finally, the grande wormwood
and the petite, chaste ornament of the mountains and seashores , daughter of the pure high
winds, wheat of virgin spaces, emblem of untamed freedom.
comes from Italy, the other 4 major herbs in a typical Pontarlier absinthe blend were all
historically grown in the region: grand wormwood (Artemisia absinthium), petite wormwood
(Artemisia pontica, aka Roman wormwood), melissa (aka lemonbalm), and hyssop.
With the century-long ban on absinthe, the tradition of cultivating these herbs around Pontarlier
died out, and the priceless knowledge of local growing conditions was largely lost. In the last
few years, we at Archive Spirits have been instrumental in helping rebuild this lost heritage, by
working with local farmers to once again plant the classic Pontarlier absinthe herbs, in some
cases in the very same fields that, on the evidence of old photographs, once supplied the
absinthe distillers of the Belle Epoque. We're proud that all the absinthe herbs used in our
Roquette range are locally grown, just a few miles from the distillery.
It seems appropriate to quote here an extract from Ernest Tisserand's 1922 "Éloge de la très
précieuse liqueur d’Absinthe", an elegiac memoir of the absinthe era:
There are no sweeter names than those borne by the plants from which the mild liquor is
distilled. And I don't know in all the world of plants more vivid and more proud. They are the very
flower of the spirited hyssop, the fennel that scents the mullet grilled for kings, the melissa that
restores color to swooning women, the anise that makes food resound, the angelica embedded
like sticks of joy in children's gingerbread, the star anise nurtured by mandarins like the Dutch
tend their tulips, the coriander that bleaches the saliva, the mint that drives love, the oregano
that makes the eyes of maidens shine, and it is the wormwood finally, the grande wormwood
and the petite, chaste ornament of the mountains and seashores , daughter of the pure high
winds, wheat of virgin spaces, emblem of untamed freedom.
A year-old wormwood field in the
village of La Rivière Drugeon,
about half an hour's drive from
Pontarlier. It's believed that this
particular field was devoted to
absinthe cultivation in the pre-ban
era as well - it's immediately
adjacent to a disused railway
track, which, a century ago, run
directly to a siding at the Pernod
Fils factory.
village of La Rivière Drugeon,
about half an hour's drive from
Pontarlier. It's believed that this
particular field was devoted to
absinthe cultivation in the pre-ban
era as well - it's immediately
adjacent to a disused railway
track, which, a century ago, run
directly to a siding at the Pernod
Fils factory.
Another newly planted field, on the outskirts of the industrial area of Pontarlier. To conserve moisture and prevent weed growth, the
young plants are grown through black plastic sheeting.
young plants are grown through black plastic sheeting.
At La Rivière Drugeon, outside Pontarlier, absinthe grows wild on the edges of gardens and along
the roads. These are mature plants with flowering tips, in commercial terms ready for harvesting.
the roads. These are mature plants with flowering tips, in commercial terms ready for harvesting.
In another revival of an old tradition, an
annual harvest festival is now held in
July each year in Pontarlier - amidst
much festivity, a wagon load of newly
dried absinthe is paraded through the
streets, and stalks are handed out to
the assembled populace.
annual harvest festival is now held in
July each year in Pontarlier - amidst
much festivity, a wagon load of newly
dried absinthe is paraded through the
streets, and stalks are handed out to
the assembled populace.
The beautiful and delicate petite absinthe plant, smaller in every respect than its more famous cousin, and
harder to grow, as the plant is less vigorous. Much less bitter than grand absinthe, it's used primarily in the
colouring step.
harder to grow, as the plant is less vigorous. Much less bitter than grand absinthe, it's used primarily in the
colouring step.
Young melissa or lemonbalm plants - part of the mint family.
Another essential herb for colouring absinthe - hyssop. As the plants mature they produce small blue flowers - a sign the
stalks are ready for harvesting.
stalks are ready for harvesting.
